The Influence of Ottoman Turkish Textiles and Costume in Eastern Europe, with Particular Reference to Hungary

Beverley A. Powles was a spinner, dyer, and guide at Lang Century Village near Peterborough, Ontario.

Dr. Veronika Gervers was the associate curator of textiles at the Royal Ontario Museum. Her study of art history and mediaeval architecture at the University of Budapest, Hungary, led to her receiving her doctorate in 1965. Following her arrival in Canada in 1967, she joined the staff of the textile department of the ROM. In memory of Harold Burnham, she edited Studies in Textile History.

In this monograph, the areas and eras of influence of the Ottoman Empire are set out, along with an outline of trading patterns. Dr. Gervers divides her discussion into three parts — garments, embroidery, and carpets. Each description is correlated with the 85 photographs of individual textile pieces, be they garments, embroidery fragments, or carpets, and photographs of textiles in situ. The notes included with the figures are extensive and provide much information on period costume design as well as the materials used. A collection of funerary portraits is also examined as prime source material to show the use of articles as well as their design. The six appendices include a concise documentation of the rise and decline of the Ottoman Turkish Empire, in map and point form, as well as a glossary of terms used and sources cited.

This monograph provides access to a great deal of information, presented in a way that makes it useful both to the serious student and to those with a less specific interest. Dr. Gervers’ ability to do her own translations makes available information from prime sources. The numerous photographs, unfortunately only in black and white, provide much detail and are valuable source material for style, design and uses of textiles. This little volume will be a very useful textile reference tool.

Historically speaking, Dr. Gervers’ monograph illustrates, by use of textiles, the principle that political dominance may decline but cultural influences remain and become part of the fabric of the people.